Yes, you can replace the point with an electronic ignition. I did it many years ago, after frying the points connections.

Yes, replacing/upgrading the starter system is fairly common on those older bikes as that was one of their weak points.

As for thinking it could run a little better... welcome to the world of airheads... If you aren't used to the sounds of a boxer engine, you will constantly think its "rattling a little too much". You will eventually learn to distinguish the good rattle from any bad rattles that emerge.

As for the valve adjustment... I really recommend learning to do it yourself as it is the one thing that you can do (next to oil changes) to keep the engine in top shape (about every 3000 miles for older bikes). It is VERY easy, like just a bit harder than changing a tire. It just takes a torque wrench an feeler guage set,a 10mm, and 2 12 mm wrenches, and a 15mm socket (on mine) and a flashlight .

First you must do it when the engine is totally cool. If you even start it up for a few minutes before hand you will not get it right. You remove the valve covers and plugs. Un-torque the six nuts 1/4 turn on the head (in a star pattern - see clymers or other refs for the full instructions) . Then you re-torque them in the same pattern. Then you go to the view-port on the engine and spin the rear wheel (in 4th or 5th gear) until you see the marks (- OT, I believe again see a full reference) This it Top Dead Center(TDC) for one cylinder. You will know which cylinder is on TDC by wiggling the valves one side will have play , the other will not. Check the valves on the side with play, Adjust the gaps if necessary. Exhaust in front, intake in rear. they use 2 different gauges. basically all it is is a very fine double nut adjustment, you use two 12mm (on mine) wrenches to loosen one nut from the other then adjust the bottom nut (like in 32ths of a turn.. or less) then tighten the top nut back down and test with the feeler gauge.. then should be a bit of grab but not tight and not just sliding through. This part takes a little finnesse and practice (not uncommon to have to repeat feeler/adjustment the process a few times).
When you get one side done rotate the wheel again until you see the OT mark come around again. then the other side will TDC and you will feel the play in the other cylinder. adjust and then when finished with that side, rotate the wheel a few turns to seat them and then got to OT on the first side again and check with the feeler gauge again (check both sides like before).

then you are done, put plugs back on, put on a new gasket on valve cover if its old. (I recommend the silicone ones... as you can reuse them a looong time.

OK... thats all from memory, so I again recommend that you get a ref manual for your bike. but don't let a valve adjustment scare you. Hell you cleaned your carbs! Taking my Carbs apart has always been something mysterious and scary to me.

Good luck